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Friday 21 October 2011

LEJOG - THE LAST POST

As I get up this morning to a day without a destination to cycle to, it's time for some reflection over the last month or so that's it's taken to complete the journey from Lands end in Cornwall to John O'Groats in Scotland.

First off, it's been tough and there have been many times when I've questioned the sanity of such an expedition. I've suffered physically and pushed myself mentally to places I've never gone before to achieve the daily goals.

But then, looking at it the other way, it wouldn't be a challenge if it had been easy without any pain.

Heading out in the autumn, I've faced all weathers. Some beautiful sunshine in Devon, to cold, wet and windy weather as I ventured further north.

Of course, there's been the hills. Lots of them. Devon and Cornwall lived up to their reputation as being the hardest part of the trip on that score, although, to say things have been pain sailing since would be a lie. Truth is we live in a very hilly isle, and there wasn't a day where there wasn't the need to change down into the lowest gear. One thing's for sure, the UK is not Holland.

There's also been injury and accident and equipment loss to add to the mix.

On the other hand the journey has also had it's moments. The views from some of the climbs, the spectacular scenery of the Scottish landscape and the B road olde worlde spots, castles and stately homes you wouldn't normally find if you were travelling by car.

Most notably, it's the people I've met on the way. It's also been a spiritual journey. A visit to places having family and ancestral significance as a member of the Mackie clan. And an opportunity for introspection and self awareness. Even at 40 plus with an open mind, you can learn about yourself. Your strengths and your, weaknesses.

It's been a solo journey without support vehicles, so I've had to carry all my equipment and deal with any issues myself, which it's a poetic reflection of my adult life. I've had to be independent and self reliant.

That said, it would be wrong to say I've done this journey on my own. There have been many times, as a Christian, I have sensed the presence of God, including specific directions in the small details of the day to day journey, some potentially life saving.

For those of you without any spiritual convictions, you may describe this as focusing on the present and listening to your conscience and gut instinct or your inner voice in all that you do.

In a more human sense, there have been many people that have helped me on the way and contributed to me achieving the goal. Thanks goes to the following cycle shops for timely maintenance assistance:

The cycle shop, Penzance
The bike shed, Barnstaple
Seven valley cycles, Lydney
Evans cycles, Manchester

Thanks to Scotrail for the complimentary rail travel back from a Wick to Manchester.

The Yha and SYha for their assistance with accommodation.

Huge appreciation goes to Daf Merion and family, Doug and Sheila Mitchell, Pieter and Elria Kwant, as well as Phil and Anne Kennedy for the amazing hospitality I received in my stop overs in Preston, Kendal, Carlisle and Fort William. In each case after a wet day's cycle, it was amazing  to have a hot shower/bath, dry off my wet cycling gear. I thoroughly enjoyed the great meals and Christian fellowship to send me on my way feeling refreshed and refuelled.

A big thanks to John Campbell for his company and unburdening me of my camping equipment and making the cycle from Oban to Inverness so much easier.

Thank you to those who have donated on route:

Les Jackson, Cornwall
Newark farm b & b, Sanquhar
Tina May, Strathpeffer

There's also all those who have already sponsored me on line and will donate via the Virgin giving web page to Save the Children. A big thanks to all of you  - I'll be sending each of you a personal email.

And also finally, thanks to all of you who have been following my progress over the last few weeks and for all those emails and words of encouragement, they have been much appreciated.

While this is the last official post, I will add a technical foot note with some tips on approach and equipment, etc, for those perhaps interested in undertaking this trip themselves.

So with that, thanks for reading and your support and all the best to you.

And now after a rude awakening on the Caledonian sleeper (now there is a contradiction in terms), it's back to, yes you've guessed it...Preston!

That's what you might call going back to reality.

Bruce




LEJOG EPILOGUE - TECHNICAL COMMENTARY

After the second cycle trip in a few months, it's been a learning curve and I thought it might be useful to share a few of the key points with those who might be contemplating this, or other long range cycle tours.

PLANNING

First off is planning. The more you do up front, the less you will have to do on the road, leaving you to focus on what you need you do every day - cycle.

Of course, you also need to be flexible to deal with current issues that might crop up, so don't get too stuck on one way of thinking and be prepared to change your plan as and when required. A smart phone is an essential piece of kit for this, as well as being able to keep in touch with the outside world and writing blogs!

Having a spreadsheet with daily miles, destinations and at least one or two accommodation option is a good ready to use reference for your bar bag.

Using a web site like bikemap.net will help you plan your route and ensure you break it down into manageable daily distances. Be conservative, you can always cover longer distances as you get fitter. Personally, I found 50 miles a day was enough with full kit, as the journey progressed and I had less to carry I found I could do around 65 miles a day.

Clearly, if you have a carbon fibre race bike and a support van, a fit cyclist could probably more easily manage 100 miles.

Be aware of any train and ferry times you may encounter on route. For example, the Wick to Inverness train passes through Thurso, meaning that if it's tight to get the last 4pm train, you can buy yourself an extra half an hour by cycling west to Thurso and also avoiding a strong southerly head wind.

Clearly, season will have a huge impact. Summer is more enjoyable, with more people and cyclists to share the journey with, but you will find accommodation harder to find. Winter will be harder, lonelier and require more equipment to be bought and carried, adding to your load.

Study your daily route the evening before to avoid mistakes, hilly areas and busy A roads, as much as possible.

UP OR DOWN?

Personally, I elected to go up rather than down, i.e. LEJOG versus JOGLE, for several reasons.

Firstly, contrary to popular belief, yes there are lots of mountains in Scotland, but you aren't cycling up hill. The fact is there are lots of hills you need to cycle up and down. However, you will still start and finish at sea level, so this really is an urban myth - it's going to be hard which ever direction you choose.

Secondly, the prevailing winds in the UK are south westerly, therefore if you go south you will likely be having to cycle into the wind, which added to the strain of peddling up hills, as I know only too well, is not much fun.

Thirdly, if something goes wrong and you get an injury, unless you already live in Scotland, you will probably find it very expensive to get a return train journey home and back to recommence where you left off.

The rest is probably personal preference. I preferred to finish off in Scotland, as I hadn't been that far north, so it felt more of an achievement to finish at JOG. Conversely, I had already been to LE.

FITNESS

Warm up and stretch all leg and back muscles properly every day and don't put any power down for at least 2 hours, particularly if cold if you want to avoid injury. Keeping your cadence at the optimum speed also helps avoid putting too much strain on tendons and ligaments. If things don't feel right, get off, re stretch, and if there really is a problem, stop the trip and either rest until recovery, or seek medical assistance.

DIET

Eat lots! You will burn a lot of calories, so don't worry about the diet. A big breakfast is very important, as is a large evening meal to refuel. In between, lots of snacking, you'll need sugar, water and salt to replenish, plus proton to repair the muscles. Cereal bars, orange juice, water, and pork pies were my solution!

Make sure you carry two large water bottles on the bike, drink before you set off and remember you will need to drink more in hotter weather.

ACCOMMODATION

Depending on your budget, your choice will influence the ease of your trip and your experience.

Camping is fun in summer and the cheapest option at around £10 per night. However this option will take more time out of your day setting up and decamping. In winter, it's a less than practical option, you'll need to arrive earlier to set up and cook, it will be a lonelier experience and less comfortable in damp, cold and rainy conditions, with no way to dry off wet kit. If you do decide to give yourself this option, remember you will be adding a lot more weight to your load. Buy the best and lightest gear you can afford. A two man is essential for longer trips for comfort and kit storage. A one man tent or bivvy bag should only be contemplated as a back up or in summer for shorter cycles.

One added issue for Scotland is the insects. Specifically midges and more worryingly, ticks. If you don't like either, don't camp north of the border.

Hostels are the next cheapest option from £15, with b&b's also offering good value for money from £25 upwards.

ROAD SAFETY

As I learnt, the average road user had little respect for the cyclist and will often pass you too quickly and too close. There is a special danger with larger vehicles like HGVs and  buses, as well as in built areas and busy A roads which you can't always avoid. Do NOT go onto dual carriageways.

Therefore, make sure you buy a high vis bib or vest you can wear over other clothing and a high vis helmet cover. Wear at least one AT ALL TIMES. Buy high power lights and have these switched on flashing mode in poor light and full mode at night.

Fit a good rear view mirror and use it frequently. If you see a large vehicle approaching, or a possible bottleneck or bend where it might be hard to see you or overtake, pull over and let the traffic pass.

EQUIPMENT

A real minefield, there are many combinations and preferences - road,MTB or hybrid. Trailer, or no trailer. And that's before even thinking of what equipment to choose.

The main learning is to minimise what you carry. Avoid loading your bike up with lots of front and rear panniers, this will give you too much weight to carry. Be clinical with what you take and buy the best and lightest gear you can afford.

At the end of the day, a lot will come down to personal preference, however some tips would include:

- Well maintained bike with road tyres, comfortable saddle and touring bar
- cycle computer
- compass and bell
- waterproof panniers and dry bags, Ortlieb are the Mercedes in this genre
- waterproof handle bar bag with map case, again, I have elected foot Ortlieb
- quality locks
- high power lights
- full tool kit and spare tubes, cables, chain links, spokes, brake blocks
- cycle helmet with visor
- spd, clip in shoes and pedals
- cycle vests, shorts, tights, base layers
- high vis vest and helmet cover, wear at least one AT ALL TIMES
- mirror
- quality waterproofs; jacket,  trousers and overshoes. Be aware that manufacturers claims in this regard are not necessarily accurate, do review kit carefully before purchase and year before a trip. Sooner be afraid to return if it doesn't do what it claims
- smart phone with internet access and navigation, etc, as well a, a quality emergency our baal up charger
- radio and mp3/video player

Thursday 20 October 2011

JOHN O'GROATS - THE END

After an interesting evening and breakfast chatting with the German proprietor of Jutta's b&b, I set off through Helmsdale for the final leg of the journey to John O'Groats.

Being warned about a few beast climbs out of Helmsdale, I scaled them without too much difficulty and with a clear day, enjoyed views out to the north sea. A relatively sparsely populated part of scotland, human activity mainly consists of farmland and quite a few derelict old farmsteads and crofts.

I passed through Wick, but eager to press on, after some short stops to refuel, I continued cycling and finally arrived at JOG at around 2pm, some 55 miles from Helmsdale and 857 from Lands End. Of course, without my cycle computer it is impossible to calculate how far I actually cycled, however, I suspect it was probably closer to 1,000 miles.

I was advised there was little much at John O'Groats, however, I found there was little much different to Lands End, so was not too badly disappointed. After a few quick snapshots for the record, I got back onto the bike to attempt to catch the 4pm train from Wick to Inverness.

However, with numerous slight gradients, a strong head wind, little strength left in the fading legs, aware of the railway deadline, this was a hellish final extra leg.

With extensive self-motivational commentary, much of which I would not care to relay here, I crawled back into Wick station with 15 minutes to spare to start a 4 hour train journey for the 100 or so mile journey back to Inverness.

On another day, I may have been able to pedal faster.

Tonight, I will stay at Inverness yha again and return tomorrow evening via the sleeper to Manchester, first class, courtesy of Scotrail.

So that's the end of the trip, however not the blog. I will make one last post, with some reflections and thank yous. Til then, thanks for following, and you be back, y'hear!











Wednesday 19 October 2011

HELMS DEEP

So peeps, after a day off in Inverness during out a few things and visiting Aunty Ada in Daviot, today, it was time to get back into the saddle and hit the road once again.

This unfortunately was literally what happened after a small detour visiting the Mackie lair (plot) in Mitchell hill cemetery, Dingwall. In what was the main residence for several ancestors, I made a stop behind the Greenrooms cafe for some lunch and to try to warm up from a very chilly snap. After a chin wash with some locals and generous donation by Tina May of Strathpeffer I set off again.

After riding out of the town for a few miles, I had an 'off' caused by some leaf slush on the wrong side of a drain. This caused the front wheel to lose grip and I found myself giving the tarmac a closer inspection than I would have personally chosen.

Getting up quickly, I looked behind and saw a stationary line of traffic. To my observation, the lead driver must have reacted quickly to prevent what could have been squashed Mackie on toast.

After a furtive inspection, aside from some minor damage to my mirror and panniers, I was fortunate to have escaped without any injuries. Given the speed I was travelling, I really don't know how this was, domine must have been looking after me - praise be to God!

Keen to reach my goal for the day and the penultimate battle with the pedals, I soon got going again. The coast line north from Inverness is quite remote, so aside from some small hamlets and towns, you have the opportunity of some really spectacular scenery.

Needing to cover 65 miles, today was another big day and I only reached the outskirts of Helmsdale and Jutta's b & b in Portgowan after dark.

An interesting set up, Jutta's is run by a German family originally from Bavaria. Why they would want to move to Scotland us something I will need to quizz them more about over tomorrow's breakfast.

With that, I will sign off until my next and hopefully final blog post, before the match sticks propping up my eyelids collapse.

Good night and sweet dreams.









Monday 17 October 2011

LOCH NESS MONSTERS

After the demise of my cycle computer, I sorely needed some home comforts and this is exactly what I received at my hosts for the night, the Kennedy's of Fort William. Waiting for me was a hot bath and an amazingly large portion of very wholesome home cooking, which I was encouraged to have seconds, and thirds...

One thing you do not need to worry about when cycling all day is a diet. In fact, it's more a case of ensuring you have enough to graze on. With the need for sugar and salt, it really gives you an excuse to consume all the things you would normally feel guilty about afterwards. Girls, the old addage 'a minute on the lips and a life time on the hips' doesn't apply here.

Today was another day where I covered two planned stages, cycling from Fort William to Inverness along several lochs including Loch Ness, a total of around 65 miles.

While I didn't espy the famed beastie, I did encounter numerous monsters of the automotive variety along the A82 running along the north side of the shore. I elected this route, avoiding the suggestion to cycle along the quieter road to the south requiring a 600 foot climb via Glendoebeg and then dropping down to Foyers.

Peddling through intermittent rain with high vis and lights, as usual, I still spent an inordinate amount of time looking in the mirror and pulling over many times to allow hgvs and cars to pass me, many of which did so at speed.

The A82 is not for those with high blood pressure or poor bowel control.

Ironically, due to the drop in temperature, I spent a lot of time at the side of the road waiting for a long enough gap in the traffic so I could answer the repeated calls of nature. Of the first variety, I may add.

On a more serious note, you do really need to have your wits about you on this road. Earlier in the day on a gentle gradient forcing a very low I speed I was jumped by a bus that came up and passed by so close that I had no where to go but into the grass verge. Clipped in to my pedals at low speed, I soon found myself lying on my side still attached to the cycle starting up at the passengers looking down at me.

Needless to say the bus did not stop. However, I did manage to record the time, place and number plate which I passed on to thre next country police office I went past in Fort Augustus. Yarp!

Carrying on after a change into drier socks and some food in the village, I finally made it into Inverness yha where I met another kind of monster - my evening meal.

Tomorrow, I'll be having a day off from cycling to sort a few things out in the morning and hopefully visit a relative in the afternoon. I'll be then back in the saddle and on the digital cycle cb heading for Hemsdale on the 19th for what I hope will be the penultimate day's cycle towards John O'Groats.

Until then, ten four rubber duckies and y'all have a good day.






Sunday 16 October 2011

NEEDLE IN A HAY STACK

Today was a day of mixed blessings. Having met another cyclist in the Oban yha, John very kindly offered to take my camping equipment on to Inverness, meaning I could cycle for at least three next trip days with half the weight.

I also awoke to the first bit of sunshine of this leg and fine glorious views of Oban bay.

Setting off without waterproofs and my cleated cycle shoes, I was looking forward to hopefully the first enjoyable day of cycling for some time.

This was in fact the case until around 7 miles into the journey, I looked down to find that my cycle computer had jumped ship.

Not wanting to be without the obvious advantages of the speed displays, I was also desperate not to lose my record of the total distance recorded by the odometer.

This forced an about turn and a cycle back to search for the errant device. Having reached the beginning again, I turned round once again to scan as I cycled, third time on the correct side of the road.

Needless to say, after two legs the small black round object didn't reappear.

Gutted I carried on and shed a tear for the cruelness of life over a stop for lunch. I had sought, but not found. I had prayed but my prayer had not been answered. It seems God does not respond to a pre-middle aged tantrum about a cycle computer.

Trying to make peace with my loss, I continued on, receiving some consolation from the spectacular scenery unfolding before me.

This was short lived, however as the heavens began to open once more, testing the by know, poorly respected Altura jacket with intermittent showers.

Then it occurred to me. Perhaps, the computer had gone on strike in protest at the threat of redundancy ar the Altura factory, organised by UCA (Union of cycle accessories). What would it take to coax it back to work? Then I, reminded myself the holiday on Zetron 5 was over. I was in the west coast of Scotland.

Finally, with light starting to fade, I approached Fort William, nestling under the shadow of Glen Nevis, to the home of Phil Kennedy and wife as well as second guest. Once again amazing home cooked food, conversation and generous hospitality were gratefully received.







Saturday 15 October 2011

ROOM 101

After an early start to perform some much needed bike maintenance and a heart breakfast, I left the refurbished Lochranza yha and the friendly manager, Rob to catch the 9.30 Claonaig ferry to the mainland.

Narrowly avoiding returning the hearty breakfast to the rough sea, I survived the half an hour crossing by chatting to a biker from Dorset on the top deck in a stiff breeze.

Dodging the wash, I ran up the ramp onto the site and took advantage of a passenger shelter while I made some much needed changes to two sets if badly with brake blocks.

45 minutes later, I braved it back out into the elements of a very drizzly mid morning and set out for Oban. Aware the first thing would be to overcome a climb, I made sure I was well stretched and took out easy to effect a warm up.

The, climb over, the road took a mostly coastal path, a welcome flat run, allowing me to reminisce about Holland.

By early afternoon I had already reached my planned overnight stop at Lochgilphead. Wanting to gain a day's advantage, I pressed on for another 65 plus mile day. Looking forward to more flat coastal roads, turning off for Oban shortly after